Make sure it works properly by doing a dry run sitting in your harness on the ground with somebody holding up the risers. Watch the pulleys as you push and see them come together for max speed.

Try it in smooth air and get used to it, it's not an emergency thing only, experienced pilots use the speed system all the time, between thermals, to cross sink, to beat Bill to the LZ and so on.

There is more than "on" and "off" on your bar, use only as much as you need.

On full bar in rough air you might get a frontal collapse, let up immediately if you feel major turbulence.

If you collapse, relax. The frontal is uncomfortable but harmless and doesn't require much input from the pilot, the Glider will reinflate instantly, you can stop the surge you might get with properly timed braking (you apply the brakes as you swing back in your seat, Glider is surging forward). Surge control should be something you do all the time, "active flying".

Before you push on the bar make sure the lines are routed properly, there was this guy out in AZ a few years ago who had the line wrapped around his reserve handle and had an accidental deployment....... when he pushed on the speed bar.

So, bottom line for easiest radio improvements:

1). communicate your possible imminent landing while still 1000' AGL (this seems to work in the flatlands anyway).

2). Get better antennas, they're one of the cheaper ways to get much better performance.

2.5). Keep transmissions short and intelligible: give your GPS coordinates if you know them, and some helpful landmarks are nice but don't get too hung up on them. The first time we flew in NM, Steve Bland told us "I'm landing right next to the windmill, you can't miss it!" - as we drove along, we noticed that every single ranch out there has a windmill!

3). Whoever is left to drive retrieve should keep a notebook and pencil handy and keep update points - write down each "I'm at 1000', at North xxx, West xxx, and scratching hard." That way, when you finally do lose communication after the pilot has landed, if you missed the last check in or two, you can get a good bearing on which way to go and usually pick up radio contact again. Since we normally tow, there's almost always someone in the vehicle pulling someone else up - take those notes and acknowledge the tranmission.

4). When searching for the lost pilot, the vehicle should keep the squelch OFF on the radio to be able to pick up the pilot. Very annoying, but often your first clues that you're nearing the pilot won't break squelch and if you're off the track a bit you might go right by. Call the pilot every five miles, and give your location also - the pilot will hear you long before you can hear them. Then listen.

5). We always have a backup phone number (usually my work phone that goes to voice mail). The mailbox number and password is passed out to pilots going XC and also to those who might wind up driving. Sometimes, the retrieve crew can also change the greeting which is kind of nice too: "Hey, if this is Brent, we got your last message and will be within radio range by 5:30PM.

6). Cell phones were amazing: too bad New Mexico doesn't have digital coverage yet (I guess the AT&T digital phone "kind of" worked out there, but Sprint users had a nightmare, even in dual-mode analog transmitting. Analog coverage there is great though, and almost everyone offers you a phone when they stop to check you out. And almost everyone stops too: "Hi, need anything?" and better yet (or more annoying, depending , is the "Hey man, you sure didn't get very far today? Want some water while I go call Curt?" you get when you're within 20 miles of Crossroads Windsports! This year, almost everyone had one (7 of us this time) and we all carried cards with each other's cell #s, ham radio repeaters, and the VoiceMail instructions for my work number.

Therefore it has been found that sustaining a pack at the fully charged state by way of pulsing the charge is better than an continuous trickle charge.

Some chargers employ this technique. You can do the essentially the same thing rather simply and at a very low cost.

Simply connect your regular wall module charger that came with your system to an appliance timer. Intermatic makes a good unit for around $5.00. Set the trigger pins on the timer so that it is on for 1 hour a day. When you return from a flying session turn the timer wheel so that the on off triggers come up in 14 to 16 hours. Then turn the timer knob to on. This will give your pack a full charge and then a sustaining charge for 1 hour a day. The battery can be left in this manner for a long time and still be maintained at a fully charged state with minimal overcharge.

If you only use your radios for a couple of hours, you can just set the timer so that you get 6 or 8 hrs before you go into the 1 hr. day mode.

The system usage will vary, depending on your flying style, how much you gab, etc.

paraphrased from an article by Reds R/C Battery Clinic

• Check the wing for twisted lines. Brake lines OK?
• Check the wing for trash in the lines. Holes, etc.
• Check that you have a FLYING wing.
• Have the wing under control and stable before you start your run.
• A few other things I have missed I'm sure.

Slow down gang, it's better to have 1 good flight than 3 lousy hurried attempts, besides, it wears me out! Choose your air to FLY in. Even birds wait til conditions are good before they "pop" up out of the trees!

Remember, practice kiting, PRACTICE kiting, it's "NOT just for beginners you know!" Have you ever noticed how much kiting Chris does? watch sometime, he does 5-15 min. most flying sessions! There is a reason.